Traveler Asif Ilyasov’s Notes – “Namibia”
Caprivi – The Wind of Freedom
Africa, the second-largest continent on Earth, spans over 30 million square kilometers. Often referred to as the cradle of human civilization, its vast expanse from the Mediterranean shores to the Cape of Good Hope encompasses a myriad of natural and cultural wonders.I’ve visited Namibia countless times, yet, for some reason, I had never set foot in the Caprivi National Park. This area, known as the Caprivi Strip, is a unique geographical feature in northeastern Namibia. It’s a narrow protrusion bordered by Angola and Zambia to the north, Botswana to the south, and nearly touches Zimbabwe at its eastern tip. The region is rich in biodiversity, housing several national parks like Bwabwata, Mudumu, and Nkasa Rupara, and serves as a corridor for wildlife such as elephants and African wild dogs. Namibia holds a special place in my heart—it was the site of my first international hunting experience, my first hunting group, and the first animal I ever hunted. It’s akin to a first love—unforgettable. However, the Namibia I knew, often referred to in Afrikaans as “Namibië,” was influenced by German and Dutch cultures. In contrast, the Caprivi region, lying across the river near the Botswana border, presents an entirely different world.In June of last year, my friend—let’s call him Capra Capra, a novice hunter who prefers to remain anonymous—joined me and a group from Azerbaijan on a hunting expedition. Our target was antelope. During this trip, he expressed a strong desire to hunt buffalo, perhaps even two, in the upcoming summer. I questioned whether it might be premature, considering it would be only his third international hunt (we had already planned a trip to Kyrgyzstan in the fall). Nonetheless, he was resolute. Consequently, we promptly booked two buffalo hunts.When June, the Namibian winter, arrived, we landed in Windhoek. We spent a few days at a ranch, practicing shooting at distances up to a kilometer and engaging in some antelope hunting. Notably, our hunter friend has a keen interest in long-distance shooting, drawing inspiration from renowned marksmen like Ammon Ammon and Sergey Mazurkevich. While he still has room for improvement, his potential to become an excellent marksman is evident.After two days, we flew to Katima Mulilo, the capital of the Zambezi Region. Situated on the banks of the Zambezi River, Katima Mulilo is a vibrant town with a population of approximately 46,000 as of 2023. It’s a gateway to the Caprivi Strip and is known for its lush riverine vegetation and diverse wildlife. From there, a short flight followed by a 90-minute drive brought us to the banks of the Chobe River.
Here, a small boat was already waiting for us, and we began moving along the river. On both the Namibian and Botswanan shores, we observed countless representatives of African wildlife. At the beginning of the journey, we encountered mostly antelopes, while the hippos basking on the shore were naturally accompanied by their feathered friends—the birds. We approached them quite closely, so a heavy-bodied hippo lazily rose from the shore and headed into the water—its home. Its “herd” followed suit in the same manner. Countless elephants were visible in the desert. The buffaloes, which were of particular interest to us, also appeared near the water. Crocodiles were basking lazily under the sun.In short, we were surrounded by an atmosphere of freedom and ease—there were no fences or obstacles, only vastness and liberty! Of course, the large number of tourists on the Botswana side was immediately noticeable. Crossing into Botswana was not a problem—just cross the river, and you are there. Naturally, you need to submit a copy of your passport through the hotel manager where you stayed the day before.We were in the hunting zone of Namibia, while the opposite side in Botswana was reserved for ecotourism. Interestingly, the area designated for hunting in Botswana is where Namibia has its ecotourism zone, and vice versa—this arrangement resembles a kind of chessboard of regions.In the late afternoon, we reached a beautiful lodge where a delicious dinner and rest awaited us. The next day, we were set for a hunting adventure planned for two buffalo. The accommodation level in the national park was high—the restaurants and staff were very professional. From the bungalows built on the rocks by the riverbank, one could constantly observe crocodiles wandering back and forth.Early in the morning, having just enough time for a single cup of coffee, we were already seated in the boat. Under the dawn of red Namibian winter skies, we watched the sunrise. The boat was operated by our professional local guides. Along with me were Capra and our PH, Boota. We cut through the river waters, watching the park’s wildlife slowly awaken. Through the branches of sparse trees along the shore, the reddish sun was looking at us, and we returned its gaze with grateful eyes.The 375 H\&H carbine gleamed beside us, showing its readiness for battle in every way. We were still sitting in inflatable jackets—the morning was still cool, but soon the African winter’s +32 degrees Celsius heat would return.After moving about 40 minutes through the river channels, we stopped at one of the banks. We wore light, sufficiently warm shoes designed for walking in water. After proceeding a bit further, we saw a group of buffalo. They had already noticed us and were watching us carefully. However, after close observation, we did not find any animals suitable as trophies to catch our interest.
The African buffalo is one of the most dangerous inhabitants of the African continent. They may appear calm and harmless in appearance, but the number of people killed by them exceeds the deaths caused by all big cats combined. A mature male can weigh a ton or more. Its body height can reach 1.8 meters, and its length is between 3 and 3.5 meters.Among the five subspecies of the African buffalo, the largest is the Cape buffalo. It is found in the eastern and southern regions of Africa. This animal is known for its dark-colored skin and coarse hair covering, and its main characteristic is its aggressive nature. As it ages, its hair thins, and older individuals appear almost bald.So, what attracts hunters to buffalo hunting? Of course, adrenaline! Because the hunter must shoot from a very close distance to the animal, and that’s where the main excitement of the hunt lies. Naturally, the buffalo’s strong, upward-curving horns are also considered a very valuable trophy. Horns are most commonly found on the subspecies living in the savannahs. In mature males, these massive horns gradually merge, forming what looks like a bony shield that no bullet can easily penetrate. The length from one horn tip to the other can reach up to one meter.The main habitat requirement for buffaloes is the presence of a water source. They have excellent hearing and a sensitive sense of smell, but their eyesight is weak. They are almost always alert, especially females with calves. At the slightest sign of danger, they adopt a characteristic posture: raising their heads and pulling their horns back. If the danger is confirmed, all the animals grazing nearby gather tightly as a well-organized herd and leave the area together.
At first, they move slowly, but when faced with real danger, they can increase their speed up to 57 km/h, and then this herd turns into a deadly machine that sweeps away everything in its path. We continued our search by boat. Sometimes we came across interesting specimens, but they hid from us. Occasionally, we had the chance to get closer to them, but since they were in open areas, it was not possible — they stayed at a minimum distance of 400 meters, while we wanted to approach much closer.We were searching for buffaloes while moving through the water. Sometimes the herd we found would get scared and run away, and sometimes the animals were not suitable for the hunt. Near evening, we finally spotted a large herd of about 100 heads. Among them, we distinguished one with a very heavy horn base — that was exactly the one we were looking for. We knew there could be other trophies in the herd, but it was difficult to identify them all because they were lying down, surrounded by grass and sparse bushes.We decided to get closer, but a direct approach was impossible — we had to crawl about 300 meters. So, we started moving forward. First was the black-skinned tracker Mike, then PH Boota, followed by hunter Capra Capra and me, with another tracker, Felix, at the rear. Sometimes on all fours, sometimes fully pressed to the ground, we crawled for 30–40 minutes. Although we got muddy and a bit wet, the tension didn’t leave us — the closer we got, the higher the risk of being spotted. It wasn’t easy since we were a group of five.On the way, we passed a medium-sized dead python — it would probably soon be eaten by crocodiles or birds. We continued crawling toward the resting buffaloes. Occasionally, we observed them through binoculars. Thankfully, the grass concealed us, and we managed to get as close as 200 meters. Going further was impossible — if we stood up, they would immediately see us. Getting closer to the target buffalo was also not possible — it was lying behind 5–6 other males. However, it was lying in such an ideal position that its large side was fully visible.PH took a final careful look and gave the permission to shoot. The carbine was placed low but comfortably on a tripod. A large bush hid us, and moving forward wasn’t an option — unfortunately, I wanted to get even closer (I’m not sure if the rest of the group shared my wish). I set my camera to record and said, “I’m ready.” Capra Capra was already fully focused through the optical sight — the main thing was to make the first shot count. The rest of the group watched through binoculars.The shot rang out, and the entire herd jumped up and ran toward the water. The hunter reloaded the weapon, waiting for a second chance, but chaos erupted around us. We started pursuing the herd. The males stopped 300 meters back — this was our chance, as we wanted to identify our buffalo. On the right side, distinct from the others, was a buffalo with huge horns — I immediately focused my camera on it, and PH observed it through binoculars.
We needed to spot the golden-red patch on its body to know exactly who we were tracking — because blending in with the other buffaloes made following it difficult. At the same time, we also saw other individuals with good trophy qualities, which was a good sign — maybe the hunter would want to take a second trophy right then. In short, we had to be ready for anything; evening was approaching and we didn’t have much time left.We followed the males, and the pursuit became difficult due to the presence of lakes — we had to wade through water to cross. For some reason, neither I nor anyone else thought about crocodiles at that moment.Then Mike reported that he saw a reddish side — a hit. Actually, we had no doubt about that, but now we knew exactly which one to follow. The herd kept running, then stopping. They approached the riverbank, and on the opposite shore, I could already see Botswana’s waving flag.Finally, we reached a suitable distance and position for a shot. The hunter placed the carbine on the tripod, and PH indicated which buffalo should be targeted. The distance was about 250 meters, and we needed either to slow it down or deliver a finishing shot.The shot — a precise hit, followed by several more accurate shots. The herd panicked and fled into the depths of the lake zone, but closer to the shore. We continued the pursuit completely soaked. Suddenly, a deep roar from the buffalo was heard — PH said this was a good sign.After a while, we saw the buffalo lying a bit away from the herd — but still alive. We got close, and the hunter fired several more shots. The buffalo collapsed and lay still.At that moment, two more buffaloes appeared behind some bushes. PH quickly assessed the situation and asked the hunter:
— Do you want to shoot the pre-ordered second buffalo as well?
The hunter immediately replied:
— Yes! — adrenaline was pumping.
We managed to get as close as 150 meters, and the hunter fired again, reloaded, and fired several more shots. The buffaloes began moving away together, but one of them stopped a few meters ahead.
We approached it completely. Capra Capra fired one more shot, and then PH finished it off with his .470 caliber rifle — which was incredibly loud! Whew! At last, we had taken down both of our buffaloes! What a day, what an evening! It was already starting to get dark. After taking photos with the second buffalo, we returned to the first one. Of course, both buffaloes had holes in their sides, and steam was rising from their bodies — they were visibly smoking!We were all very satisfied with what had happened that day, and together, using flashlights to light the path in the pitch-black darkness, we made our way back by boat. Naturally, dusk is the most dangerous time for malaria-carrying mosquitoes, so we had to be extremely cautious.
The next morning, the entire hunting crew — including guides, their friends, and relatives — went to begin processing the trophies under PH’s supervision. As for us, the hunter and I decided to stay behind, get some rest, and digest the chaotic, adrenaline-filled events of the previous day.
As usual, the hunter had to do a bit of work, since the presence of internet always pushes one into action (perhaps that’s why it’s sometimes beneficial to stay disconnected in the mountains for a while — it completely clears the mind).
By midday, when we returned, the PH informed us that everything was ready. But then a second question arose: we still had a few days left — so what should we do now? Return to the ranch, practice long-distance shooting, and maybe hunt a few antelopes that weren’t yet part of the collection? Besides, we had also planned to continue filming.
After a few phone calls, we decided that the next day we would look for a crocodile designated as non-exportable — meaning it would be available at half price. We were also informed that there was a problematic hippo near a local settlement — again non-exportable, and again half-price. The hunter fully supported the continuation of this “banquet”!
In fact, from the very first day in Caprivi, you feel as though you’re surrounded by infinite freedom — a vast environment filled with the desire for adventure. Time passes quickly here — you drink your morning coffee and suddenly it’s already evening and steak time. Without a doubt, the winds of freedom blow through Caprivi, and you feel it completely.
And so, the next morning, we were already slicing through the waters of the Chobe River in search of a hippo or a crocodile.
Author: Asif Ilyasov
Photos: Asif Ilyasov
